03 February 2009


Cuando Gemma, persona de gran humanidad y de valores asentados con la que además comparto apasionantes y animados debates literarios, me comentó que había probado una de las mejores paellas de las que se acuerda en el corazón del barrio de Schaerbeek, simplemente relativicé.

Pensé que después de tanto tiempo fuera de España, quizás demasiado, nuestro paladar podría estar dando síntomas inequívocos de aceptar cualquier arroz más o menos bien resuelto con algún guisante descolorido y alguna que otra gamba congelada de decoración.

Pero me equivoqué. Y mucho!

De hecho, empecé a ser consciente de que me equivocaba en el preciso instante en que Roberto, cuya amabilidad y apurada noción del servicio eficiente y de la calidad parecen no tener límites, me aconsejó - durante la reserva por teléfono - que si algún comensal quería arroz (paella incluída), avisara 20 minutos antes de llegar. Buena señal.

Cuando llegué al restaurante pude comprobar el resultado: arroz de grano perfecto y en su punto, buena textura y consistencia, gambas bien cocidas, guisantes sabrosos, marisco muy apetecible, buen pollo, cantidad generosa pero sin excesos, y lo más importante, la sensación general de estar recuperando parte de los sabores con los que crecimos, aquellos que compartimos con la familia en la playa los días de verano, y que algun día quedaron guardados en la memoria.

Pero paellas a parte, los amigos que probaron la fideuá, igualmente de excelente factura, salieron gratamente satisfechos y con ganas de aconsejar este dignísimo ejemplo de la España culinaria a todo su entorno. A juzgar por las risas, también parecian contentos y animados los comensales de las mesas de nuestro alrededor...

Pero alguien que leyera este artículo podría llevarse a engaño pensando que "La Cueva de Castilla" es un sitio de paellas y fideuás. Nada más lejos de la realidad!

En este restaurante acogedor y elegante abierto hace 12 años y gestionado por los hermanos Ponte - Roberto en el comedor y Javier en la cocina - y que practica una cocina clásica pero abierta a nuevas propuestas, también estan presentes, aparte de las entradas como la bandeja de jamón pata negra cortado a mano, la "dorada al horno al sofrito de tomates y anchoas al Jerez", la "zarzuela de pescado", el "arroz negro con chipirones", el "filete de cochinillo envuelto con una capa de aceitunas negras y lentejas al chorizo", el "filete de cordero al ajo con pimientos del piquillo y vino Albariño", la "fabada asturiana", etc.

Y para terminar, chupitos para todos los gustos y humores: melón, anís, manzana verde, avellana, etc.

A destacar también que "La Cueva de Castilla" aparece en el Gault et Millau (desde 2006) y en la Guía Michelin (desde 2008).


Nota: 7.8/10


Anonymous said...



Andreea said...

same Gemma who took us there as well :)
a nice discovery!

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