26 February 2009

DE LA VIGNE A L'ASSIETTE - Brussels



I have always been a fan of this restaurant (which has been wisely kept far away from the routes of 'fashion' restaurants the city is excelling at these recent days) since the very first time I went there for a business dinner some years ago.

The place, which combines a hint of high quality fine French cuisine with an austere, simple, clean and somewhat cold atmosphere (go there better with friends than in couple), is perfect to appreciate the wide range of tastes and textures.

'De la Vigne à l'Assiette' is a place that offers a great deal of knowledge, perfectionism, detail in the dish, perfect cooking and tasty combinations. Always!

On the top of the project, a great duo made of Eric Van den Bergen (the cook, the one who writes the menus) and Eddy Dandrimont (1st sommelier of Belgium in 1995, a true wine lover who proposes plenty of interesting things) has been a compact one since the restaurant first opened more than ten years ago.

On the dishes side, the menu is renewed on a regular basis, but it's always delicious, really. The last one to date highlights treats such as "Langoustines douces des profondeurs rôties et asperges vertes gratinées au parmesan, sauce bisque", the "Filet de bar grillé, vinaigrette aux herbes et pointes vertes", the l'"Agneau de lait des Pyrénées et haricots coco Tarbais à la tomate séchée".

Small downside: a certain rush to serve and remove plates (perhaps to ensure a perfect coordination between the service at the table and the kitchen) and, in my view, too much routine in the waiter's management of the tables may have led to a loss of spontaneity between the customer and the service (which sadly has a final impact - even if a non-deserved one though - on the overall image of the restaurant itself!).

However, this should not be a deterrent to enjoy this great address, whose customers will head home waiting to go back to the restaurant again.

In relation to wine, the menu includes great classic names, but without forgetting the small denominations of origin coming a bit from everywhere. Everybody agrees (so do I) that the ratio quality / price / discovery of new stuff is perfectly balanced here. In addition, the restaurant organizes regular wine tastings and sells wine in the restaurant too (on demand).

Do not feel astonished if you see a Commissioner of the European Commission, a MEP, the CEO of a big multinational company, or a known Belgian politician / musician... dining opposite your table because... it might perfectly be the case !

The restaurant still receives prizes and awards from time to time.

Rating : 7.1/10

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