28 February 2009

RESTO.BAR - Brussels




Do not feel impressed by what could seem a trivial name, the Resto.Bar has nothing of a normal restaurant or bar.

Rather, this trendy place with small Jackson Pollock-like paintings on the brick walls, round bubble lights and rolled cylidrical menus in changing colours, develops an innovative, international and fusion cuisine whose main concept is to serve everything in glass containers, either it be glasses, jars, test tubes, jam pots, etc.

The restaurant, which opened 4 years ago and which is managed by Caroline, proposes a menu divided in five sorts of food, each of which has a completely different personality and taste : starter (made of 4 different finger food composed by the chef and changing every week), fraîcheurs (with compositions made of vegetables, cheeses, mushrooms, etc.), pâtes (pasta), inédits (dishes made either with fish or meat), and after (desserts such as the 'panacotta printemps' or the 'choc show').

However, in order to have a good idea of the different sort of treats, the best option is to go for a menu combining 3 different types of food : a fraîcheur (i.e., the 'Tralala', a tasy composition with eggplant and white cheese in the bottom of the glass, mmmh !), a pâtes (i.e., 'Les Diamants Noirs', penne with white truffle and red coloured cheese !), and an inédit (i.e., the not-so-classic 'Tuna burger').

If you go there during the lunch time, a lighter version of two compositions (instead of three) will be also proposed : either a fraîcheur and a pâtes or a pâtes and an inédit, or a fraîcheur and an inédit).

The service is always ready to help and to try to adapt the menu to the customer preferences and needs.

My female tablemates pointed out that the atmosphere gives the restaurant a predominant ladies' touch which makes the place an ideal one for a true girls night out (even if boys enjoying the music and the food did not seem to be spending a boring night either !)

Resto.Bar is a place to taste and discover!

http://www.restopointbar.be/

26 February 2009

DE LA VIGNE A L'ASSIETTE - Brussels



I have always been a fan of this restaurant (which has been wisely kept far away from the routes of 'fashion' restaurants the city is excelling at these recent days) since the very first time I went there for a business dinner some years ago.

The place, which combines a hint of high quality fine French cuisine with an austere, simple, clean and somewhat cold atmosphere (go there better with friends than in couple), is perfect to appreciate the wide range of tastes and textures.

'De la Vigne à l'Assiette' is a place that offers a great deal of knowledge, perfectionism, detail in the dish, perfect cooking and tasty combinations. Always!

On the top of the project, a great duo made of Eric Van den Bergen (the cook, the one who writes the menus) and Eddy Dandrimont (1st sommelier of Belgium in 1995, a true wine lover who proposes plenty of interesting things) has been a compact one since the restaurant first opened more than ten years ago.

On the dishes side, the menu is renewed on a regular basis, but it's always delicious, really. The last one to date highlights treats such as "Langoustines douces des profondeurs rôties et asperges vertes gratinées au parmesan, sauce bisque", the "Filet de bar grillé, vinaigrette aux herbes et pointes vertes", the l'"Agneau de lait des Pyrénées et haricots coco Tarbais à la tomate séchée".

Small downside: a certain rush to serve and remove plates (perhaps to ensure a perfect coordination between the service at the table and the kitchen) and, in my view, too much routine in the waiter's management of the tables may have led to a loss of spontaneity between the customer and the service (which sadly has a final impact - even if a non-deserved one though - on the overall image of the restaurant itself!).

However, this should not be a deterrent to enjoy this great address, whose customers will head home waiting to go back to the restaurant again.

In relation to wine, the menu includes great classic names, but without forgetting the small denominations of origin coming a bit from everywhere. Everybody agrees (so do I) that the ratio quality / price / discovery of new stuff is perfectly balanced here. In addition, the restaurant organizes regular wine tastings and sells wine in the restaurant too (on demand).

Do not feel astonished if you see a Commissioner of the European Commission, a MEP, the CEO of a big multinational company, or a known Belgian politician / musician... dining opposite your table because... it might perfectly be the case !

The restaurant still receives prizes and awards from time to time.

Rating : 7.1/10

08 February 2009

ARAUCANA - Brussels

To talk about "Araucana" (name given to a local no-tail hen whose eggs are somewhat blue/green and to a conifer from Chili) is to talk about Adela Baraquett Jorat, a formet Chilean trade unionist (now aged 80 and sometimes still present in the restaurant to dance with the customers!) whose leftist ideas brought her to a forced exile to Europe during the Pinochet regime.

Fully covered with press articles, masks from the early civilizations, photos, and other colourful stuff, the walls of Araucana perfectly witness the history, the people and the way of life of both Chili and the rest of South America.

Although one should primarily go to this informal restaurant to have fun, to feel that the world is a place where everybody could live in harmony with the rest of human beings, that values such as respect and conviviality are not necessarily outdated in our times, and to remember that values have nothing to do neither with the age nor with the tough living conditions one might have had in life, no visitor should miss the opportunity to taste the home-made "ceviche" (Chilean national dish), the "empanadas" and the steaks (Argentinian beef).

Please be advised that nobody visiting this folkloric place will be able to go back home without listening a genuine live compilation of the best South American hits of all times from Peruvian José, who confirms with no hesitation that "all women in the world are beautiful, even those who are not".

Note: 5.4/10

Articulo dedicado a Rodrigo, a quien espero ver de nuevo pronto, quizas en su pais.

03 February 2009

LA CUEVA DE CASTILLA - Bruselas




Cuando Gemma, persona de gran humanidad y de valores asentados con la que además comparto apasionantes y animados debates literarios, me comentó que había probado una de las mejores paellas de las que se acuerda en el corazón del barrio de Schaerbeek, simplemente relativicé.

Pensé que después de tanto tiempo fuera de España, quizás demasiado, nuestro paladar podría estar dando síntomas inequívocos de aceptar cualquier arroz más o menos bien resuelto con algún guisante descolorido y alguna que otra gamba congelada de decoración.

Pero me equivoqué. Y mucho!

De hecho, empecé a ser consciente de que me equivocaba en el preciso instante en que Roberto, cuya amabilidad y apurada noción del servicio eficiente y de la calidad parecen no tener límites, me aconsejó - durante la reserva por teléfono - que si algún comensal quería arroz (paella incluída), avisara 20 minutos antes de llegar. Buena señal.

Cuando llegué al restaurante pude comprobar el resultado: arroz de grano perfecto y en su punto, buena textura y consistencia, gambas bien cocidas, guisantes sabrosos, marisco muy apetecible, buen pollo, cantidad generosa pero sin excesos, y lo más importante, la sensación general de estar recuperando parte de los sabores con los que crecimos, aquellos que compartimos con la familia en la playa los días de verano, y que algun día quedaron guardados en la memoria.

Pero paellas a parte, los amigos que probaron la fideuá, igualmente de excelente factura, salieron gratamente satisfechos y con ganas de aconsejar este dignísimo ejemplo de la España culinaria a todo su entorno. A juzgar por las risas, también parecian contentos y animados los comensales de las mesas de nuestro alrededor...

Pero alguien que leyera este artículo podría llevarse a engaño pensando que "La Cueva de Castilla" es un sitio de paellas y fideuás. Nada más lejos de la realidad!

En este restaurante acogedor y elegante abierto hace 12 años y gestionado por los hermanos Ponte - Roberto en el comedor y Javier en la cocina - y que practica una cocina clásica pero abierta a nuevas propuestas, también estan presentes, aparte de las entradas como la bandeja de jamón pata negra cortado a mano, la "dorada al horno al sofrito de tomates y anchoas al Jerez", la "zarzuela de pescado", el "arroz negro con chipirones", el "filete de cochinillo envuelto con una capa de aceitunas negras y lentejas al chorizo", el "filete de cordero al ajo con pimientos del piquillo y vino Albariño", la "fabada asturiana", etc.

Y para terminar, chupitos para todos los gustos y humores: melón, anís, manzana verde, avellana, etc.

A destacar también que "La Cueva de Castilla" aparece en el Gault et Millau (desde 2006) y en la Guía Michelin (desde 2008).

http://www.cuevadecastilla.be/

Nota: 7.8/10

01 February 2009

LA TUPIÑA / AU COMESTIBLE – Bordeaux, France




La découverte de cette magnifique institution gastronomique à la cuisine régionale bordelaise s’est produite tout à fait par hasard, juste après le déroutement et ultérieur atterrissage à Bordeaux de l’avion qui devait m’emmener de Bruxelles à Bilbao pour y passer un week-end.

Crée en 1968 par Jean Pierre Xiradakis, « La Tupiña » (« chaudron » en basque), est sans nul doute une de ces institutions gastronomiques éparpillées dans le monde qui, définissant et résumant à elle seule toute la palette de sensations et de saveurs d’un terroir bien défini, finit par en devenir une ambassadrice, l’ambassadrice de la cuisine du sud-ouest français, de son goût, de son savoir-faire, de l’authenticité, des textures des produits, et de la complexité qui exige d'en bien travailler leur noblesse tout en assurant la simplicité des exécutions.

Mais si une visite à « La Tupiña » vaut déjà bien le détour à Bordeaux, il en va de même pour « Au Comestible », épicerie datant de 1920 (ouverte toujours dans nos jours) qui partage la cuisine avec le frère du trottoir d’en face (ce qui oblige à des multiples voyages ‘assiettes en main’ de Marie-Pierre dont le sourire, l’accueil, la sympathie, les conseils, la connaissance, et l’amour pour le métier font partie intégrante de l’identité de ces temples culinaires).

Avant de commencer, Marie-Pierre nous propose un assortiment de chou-fleur, de radis, d’olives, une baguette entière (à couper avec les mains), un petit verre d’huile de Crète, et un Lillet – apéritif local à base de vin et d’écorces d’orange qui est de plus en plus apprécié.

Déjà dans les plats, nous commençons par les « Cèpes en persillade », simple, savoureux, très bonne option pour saisir les textures de l’excellent Château Lestrille Capmartin (Bordeaux Supérieur 2003 – http://www.lestrille.com/) et inviter à ouvrir ses notes d’élégance.

A continuation, il est temps de passer à « la morue de Bègles (déjà présente en région bordelaise depuis 1830 – à savoir que le restaurant privilégie les poissions d’estuaire) dorée à l’huile d’olive et pommes de terre ‘Grenaille’ sautées » et « l’épaule d’agneau braisée dans son jus et ail en chemise », le tout accompagné d’une poêle d’haricots blancs, tomates et herbes et d’une assiette de frites au sel et au poivre.

Et comme desserts, les excellents « pruneaux à l’Armagnac », délicieux tout simplement.

Nous n’avons donc pas goûté la « lamproie » (poisson typique de la région bordelaise) au goût très spécial et certainement bizarre aux non habitués…

Finalement, il ne faut pas oublier que « La Tupiña » (http://www.latupina.com/) a fait l’objet de plusieurs mentions de reconnaissance telles le « Meilleur bistrot du monde » (International Herald Tribune, NY), « Restaurant de l’année » (Times, Londres), « The Best Bistrot in France » (Zachys Gazette, NY), et qu’il a été classé dans les 50 meilleurs restaurants du monde par le magazine britannique « Restaurant » ainsi que parmi les 10 restaurants au monde « qui jouent avec le feu » par le magazine américain « Gourmet ».

Mais évidemment, tout ça ne serait rien sans la phrase qui définit bien l’idéal qui se cache derrière « La Tupiña » (sortie du site) : « Tous ces honneurs ne doivent pas nous faire perdre la tête, notre ambition n’est pas de devenir un grand restaurant mais de donner du plaisir simplement et de rester ce que nous avons toujours voulu, un lieu « authentique ».

A savoir que le restaurant vend tout une série de livres sur « La Tupiña », la cuisine du sud-ouest, ses recettes, ses vins…

Evaluation : 8/10

22 January 2009

LE CRABE FANTÔME - Bruxelles



Ouvert en 1979, Le Crabe Fantôme est un restaurant atypique, singulier, au décor maritime élégant dont l'ensemble des salles semble évoquer le luxe d'un ancien paquebot.

Ici, toutes les salles ont été soigneusement décorées avec du bois, avec des longues cordes blanches, avec des bouées de sauvetage et d'autres éléments similaires afin de nous rendre dans la cabine du Capitaine, dans la salle du pêcheur ou encore, sur le pont proménade.

Par rapport à la carte, cet endroit propose à la fois des mets classiques de la cuisine française et belge que de la cuisine thaïlandaise. Même si la qualité est au rendez-vous, je ne sais pas si je me suis vraiment trouvé à l'aise avec un mélange d'"entrées thaïes" (nouilles, vapeurs et croustillants divers) et l'excellent, il faut le dire, "carré d'agneau en croûte d'herbes et moutarde, légumes grillées, pommes de terre au lard maigre" qui les a suivi.

Mon conseil donc serait que pour des soucis de cohérence organoléptique, vous vous concentriez soit dans la partie thaïlandaise soit dans la partie française du menu, mais pas dans les deux en même temps!

Chez Le Crabe Fantôme (http://www.lecrabefantome.be/), le service est agréable, décontracté, mais un peu lent et distant du client. Je vous conseille aussi de commander des vins rouges, les blancs étant servis presqu'à temperature ambiante...

Restaurant à revisiter (notamment en été lorsqu'on pourra être à l'ombre des tilleuls dans la superbe terrasse) car j'ai eu la sensation d'avoir raté beaucoup de détails la première fois.

Attention au "macaron" proposé en dessert...il n'en est pas un!

Valoration : 5.7/10

HET GEBAAR - Antwerp



Erika informs about the discovery of this lunch restaurant.

The owner of this wonderful place in the very centre of Antwerp (nearby the botanic garden) is a specialist in bakery and desserts.

The restaurant, which offers a delicate, well finished, well presented and tasteful cuisine in an elegant but unpretentious atmosphere does not offer mains, so people may directly make their way to the desserts.

The place is open from noon to 18h. Bookings are not allowed on Saturdays but you would certainly find a free table if you go there around 14h.

http://www.hetgebaar.be/

Source of the photo: http://www.youropi.com/

20 December 2008

LOLA - Brussels



Opened more than a decade ago, Lola is a cosmopolitan and contemporary place in the middle of the very elegant Sablon.

Lola is also a concept about a stylish, elegant, beautiful black young woman that you would imagine behind the kitchen burners whistling while cooking, fully in love with her boyfriend, serving the tables with grace, a woman that represents the happy side of life, the kind of woman you would like to write a song about if you were a musician...

In a less poetic mood, however, Lola's magic recipe for success is a continued and balanced combination between the quality of the food, the freshness of the products, the creation of new executions and a dose of innovation (when needed), an good offer of wines (good to know that white one is always served the perfect temperature here!), the attentive service and... above all, the regularity through the years and a very well-defined personality.

Indeed, Lola is one of those places where you would like to invite your friends, your relatives, your most beloved visits to Brussels, and you would still be never tired to try once and again.

As far as the starters are concerned, Lola proposes some reminiscent plates from the best brasserie tradition like the 'croquettes de crevettes grises' and a hint of Asian food like the 'tempura de scampi sauce aigre-douce'.

However, a visit to this place should be the opportunity to taste the typically Lolan 'tourelle de crabe, remoulade de céleri rave et tomates sechées' or the 'salade gourmande de haricots verts au foie gras'.

The mains are even greater : 'cabillaud rôti, parmentier au cerfeuil, émulsion de poireaux au beurre de ferme', 'filet de bar au lait d'amandes, risotto aux champignons des bois', or the 'fricassée de volaille aux morilles, tagliatelles', 'cuisse de canard confite aux lentilles vertes de Puy'.

Do not try to go to Lola without booking!

Rating : 7.2/10

14 December 2008

DEAR FRIENDS !

Taules del Món (Tables of the World) was born a month ago with the intention to become a gateway to gastronomy in Belgium and provide useful information of good restaurants from all over the world.

Although the main idea was more to focus on gastronomy than on culinary aspects, many of you have shown an interest for the blog to provide relevant food information i.e. recipes, too.

In order to enable this, please do not hesitate to send your recipes, comments, ideas, photos and anything you might wish to share at the following e-mail address:

taules.del.mon@gmail.com

Enjoy Taules del Món, a haven of taste and pleasure !

Antoni

10 December 2008

LES BRASSINS - Brussels




Placed in a back street of Ixelles, Les Brassins is a classic 'estaminet' (word used in the Northern departments of France and Belgium to describe the 'small cafe on the corner'), furnished with wooden chairs and tables (not very comfortable, I must admit) and old liquor and tobacco tin plates on the wall (Kwak, Palm, Bastos, Sandeman, Oude Hasselt Feyten Genever, Bière des Houillières and Spa, just to mention some of them).

It is also a culinary institution in Brussels (even if I discovered it just a month ago) where food is made with the heart!

The restaurant is a genuine, simple and unpretentious place gathering all sorts of herds, but with a majority of young, informal and slighlty 'alter-mondialiste' style people of all nationalities whose main idea is to have a great moment in couple or with the colleagues while repeating once and again (as it is clear that most of clients are recidivists!) the excellent home-made style, Belgian cuisine of this tiny, iconic place.

A true experience at Les Brassins starts with the unavoidable taste of one of the 40 excellent Belgian beers available at the counter (by the way, sometimes this is going to be the best way to wait before you are given a free table in this often crowded place).

Once with the menu in your hands you will immediately realise that the list of proposals is not very extensive and that some big stars of the classic Belgian cuisine such as 'moules et frites' or 'jambonneau' are missing.

However, it will not take you that much either to realise that the size of the menu is just a minor detail if we compare it with the quality of the food. You will certainly experience some difficulties when trying to choose between one of the best 'carbonnades à la flamande' in town (slightly sweet thanks to the beer sauce), an excellent 'onglet de boeuf aux echalottes', a home-made 'boulettes sauce tomate', a true 'soupe d'oignon' or simply when ordering my favourite : a 'boeuf simple face' (a medium cooked beef steak coated with a thin layer of mustard, smashed onions and parsley...).

As in many other places, French fries (beware that French fries always came from Belgium, not France!) are happy here to accompany the main orders.

However, it is fair to point out that French fries here are not taken out from an industrial bag stored in the freezer before being put into a fryer, but rather peeled and sliced manually, which not only makes a real difference in the taste, but which is also the pride of the waitress!

You will realise that Les Brassins serves low salty food.

Still hungry? Do not hesitate to have (or share!) a 'moelleux au chocolat', a delicious home-made dessert with chocolate drops overflowing the spoon...

As far as the service is concerned, it's all about young, kind and ready to listen waitresses here. By the way, one of them, a graphic designer during the day, told me she is currently giving a lift to the website (http://www.lesbrassins.com/) and mentioned that this tiny restaurant receives good critics from newspapers from around the world such as The NY Times from time to time.

Les Brassins is mentioned in the Guide du Routard 2008. Take away service available.

Rate: 6.4/10

03 December 2008

AU STEKERLAPATTE - Brussels



Located in the popular district of Marolles (behind the Palais of Justice), this is an unavoidable must, a mythic restaurant in the world of genuine Belgian brasseries whose lively and unpretentious atmosphere makes of any guest a happy person.

Just next to the entrance, the view from the street of a crowded kitchen full of pots and pans and the restless ups and downs of the cooks (including chef Thierry Courtois) preparing sauces, mounting plates or baking 'jambonneaux' provides a hint of what we will enjoy at the table later on.

This place, which once shifted from blue plastic tablecloth to yellow paper one (considered to be a major change), is a true success story both before and after its not-that-recent reopening (a 'lourd contrôle fiscal' kept it shut for a while), and even after a younger generation (headed by Jeanine Van Avermaet-Van den Hende) took it over from the founders.

Well, my friend Olivier would argue that, apart from the change in the tablecloth, the mentioned control did provide other significant changes to the restaurant as the portions of 'jambonneau' were significantly shrinked... Our discussion on this important issue remains open...

Nevermind, the Stekerlapatte ('freshwater fish' in brusseleir, the local Brussels dialect), a restaurant to which I might have been around fifteen times (!?!), is a funny option and a good place to go when receiving guests not started with Belgian brasseries, a place where you might wish to stop before heading home after a film in the cinema, a concert, an exhibition, or simply when looking for a tasty meal without having to think too much, perhaps late on a Friday night after a stressing working day.

Every option in the menu is a great treat and the identity card of the real Belgian cuisine, that of the people, the one that really identifies and summarises the country the best.

So, do not hesitate to try any of the following masterpieces! : 'demi-poulet de grain rôti à la bruxelloise flambée à la fine champagne, crème sauce aux champignons', the 'daurade royale grillée, beurre d'anchois, olive oil and pommes nature', the 'nage aux trois poissons et scampi, pommes nature, rouille et croutons', the 'magret de canard rôti aux échalotes, à la sauce de pamplemousse, miel et gingembre', the 'côtes d'agneau, tomates grillées, sauce béarnaise, haricots verts étuvés au beurre, stoemp aux carottes, miel et amandes', the 'onglet de bœuf poêlé aux échalotes entières fondues au beurre', the 'steak tartare "minute", either prepared or not, petite salade verte, pommes frites', the 'bloempanch à la bruxelloise: large tranche de boudin noir poêlée, pommes de quartiers caramélisées'...

...even if Stekerlapatte is reknown by a star dish prepared like anywhere else and this is the famous, the unique, the great, the incredible 'jambonneau entier rôti au four, à la crème sauce moutarde en grains et pommes rissolées' a real delight and a decent gateway to culinary Belgium!

If Stekerlapatte had to disappear again, Brussels would probably remain a great place to have fun while discovering new places and eating delicious plates but I presume it would certainly lose one of its most iconic references.

Stekerlapatte is also a good place for concerts. Styles as varied as folk, jazz, cabaret, French music... are often performed on the first floor on Fridays night and on weekends.

http://www.stekerlapatte.be/

Rating: 6.5/10

29 November 2008

SWITCH - Brussels



Located in the heart of the old gastronomic Brussels (near Place Sainte Catherine), Switch is a clean, bright, and black and white stripped decorated restaurant serving contemporary French cuisine with a light hint of Greek soul.

Apart from that, Switch is a two-fold concept.

First of all, a switch is what happened to the professional career of Marc Boutsen, a former culinary journalist when he decided to create this trendy gastronomic bistro whose kitchen is open and whose service is always attentive and discreet.

Secondly, Switch is also the mixture of concepts such as compatibility and adaptability in the treatment of a wide and tasty range of products that the customer can combine according to his/her hungry, mood and preferences.

However, it is precisely the drifting apart of the compatibility and adaptability concepts, both of which had made of Switch a distinctive and innovative place in the landscape of high quality Brussels restaurants, what is currently lacking and what is pushing the restaurant towards the style of other good, but not different, quality bistrots.

The Switch is the restaurant where I once discovered what the French mean when they talk about a "corsé" wine (intense and structured one).

This restaurant is a must in the address book of any good gourmet and believe me I always leave the restaurant with an excellent impression and ready to go back again.

23 November 2008

LE RELAIS DE VENISE - L'ENTRECOTE - Paris



Founded in Paris in 1959 by the winegrower Paul Gineste de Saurs, the "Relais de Venise - L'Entrecôte", so called because it was built on a former Italian restaurant called the same name, is located in one of the streets perpendicular to the "Sartrian" Blvd. Saint Germain-des-Prés.

This iconic restaurant is one of those classic spots with a typically Parisian red canopy and the name of the restaurant written in gold, paper tablecloths and an exclusively female service dressed in a black dress and a white apron.

The place is famous for the single, simple, yet very successful menu they propose, which has remained the same since the restaurant first opened.

It all consists in a single menu made up of a salad with walnuts and mustard vinaigrette (starter) and an excellent beef entrecôte with thin French fries à volonté (too floured in my opinion, though) accompanied with a herbs sauce whose recipe is a well kept family secret (some people believe this tasty sauce is made of smashed chicken livers...)

Please beware that a true debate seems to exist on whether the meat served is actually an entrecôte - rib-eye - or a contre-filet - sirloin !

Apart from the drinks and the desserts, gourmets will only be able to ask for the cooking of the meat, information that the waitress will pen on the tablecloth.

The place is generally crowded by both locals and tourists at any season of the year and is a great stop during the long walks when visiting the French capital.

Please keep in mind that the restaurant does not allow bookings and that a 20-minutes queue at the entrance of the venue is quite the rule.

Important differences between possible misleading names:

After the death of Mr. Gineste of Saurs in 1966, his daughter Mrs. Hélène Godillot took over the restaurant in Paris ( "Relais de Venise - L'Entrecôte"). Some years later, she decided to open branches in Barcelona (1999) and London (2005).

Mr. Henri Gineste of Saurs (son of Paul), was responsible for the restaurants of similar concept (“L'Entrecôte”) in Toulouse (1962), Bordeaux (1966), Nantes (1980), Montpellier (1990) and Lyon (1999).

Finally, Marie-Paule Burrus, another daughter of the founder, was at the origin of three new restaurants in Paris (this time under the name of "Relais de l'Entrecôte"), one in Geneva, three in Beirut and one in Kuwait City (the last four operated under license).

Once the entrecôte is over, I advise you to have a coffee in the nearby classic but always trendy (and crowded!) "Cafe de Flore" (http://www.cafe-de-flore.com/), another of the city’s icons.

Rating: 6.8/10

18 November 2008

CAFE DES SPORES - Brussels




Born in 2003, the Cafe des Spores (Saint Gilles) is a restaurant specialised in mushrooms.

In general terms, the style of the place is urban, modern, convivial and funny, and the atmosphere still keeps some reminiscences of a quincaillerie (old ironware store).

Its original concept consists in rethinking and reshaping a series of more or less traditional recipes, some of them from the very terroir style and 'mushroomize' them in order to get the best organoleptic properties from such a tasty (even if not so seasonal anymore) product.

Just behind an open counter, a quite inspired chef (not very communicative, though) manages 4 kitchen burners and an oven at the same time, achieving as tasteful results as "sautéed mushrooms with paté" (good), "a custard cream with mushrooms and foie gras (curious), "the eggs cocotte with fresh truffle" (excellent, smooth, good balance), "the caramelized Belgian endives with trompettes" (very good), a "melted vacherin cheese with sautéed mushrooms and parsley on it (quite vicing!), a more than bizarre "crumble of cèpes" (interesting contrast of sweet and salty), and other similar treats.

On the desserts side, a special mention needs to be made to the "white truffle muffins" and the (very mild) "tiramisu with cèpes and half apple in the bottom".

Apart from products of the menu (Attention ! : when I say 'the' menu I am referring at the single exisitng menu available in the restaurant in the form of distant, almost invisible wall board), the restaurant offers a more than exciting option to go for an 'eat as much as you can mushrooms-based tapas depending on the mood of the chef'.

However, the execution of what could be a unique idea proposing original, tasty and well-finished dishes is sadly overshadowed by the service of a couple of poor memory waitresses as well as by the forgotten dishes that never made their way to the table (but which appeared in the final check!).

In addition to this, due to the single menu available and the pressure of the waitresses it becomes extremely difficult to have a quiet look to the proposals before ordering.

If that was not enough, the restaurant does not provide plates on the table (unless you ask for them), wines are overpriced in relation to their quality and credit cards are not allowed !

The website of the restaurant (http://www.cafedesspores.be/) is modern, clean, visually appealing, with lots of pictures, focused on young people and with some useful links to taxi and baby-sitting services. However, detailed explanations about the concept, the origins and prices are to be missed.

Finally, a reference needs to be made to the former 'delicatessen' store now converted into restaurant 'La Buvette', just opposite of Cafe des Spores, which is the meat arm of the mushroom restaurant.

Rating : 6.5/10